When I moved to Valencia from Toronto four years ago, I thought I understood Christmas. After all, I'd grown up with decorated trees, festive music playing in November, and an exhausting race to finish shopping by December 24th. But my first Spanish Christmas taught me that I'd only experienced one version of this holiday, and that Spain does things very differently.

The holiday season here stretches from early December through January 6th, with multiple gift-giving occasions, unique culinary traditions, and a pace that favors family gatherings over frantic shopping. As someone who designs experiences for a living, I've come to appreciate how Spain's Christmas traditions reflect deeper cultural values around family, patience, and celebration.

If you're considering spending the holidays in Spain or moving here permanently, understanding these traditions will help you navigate everything from social invitations to workplace expectations. Here's what you actually need to know about how Christmas works in Spain.

Spanish Christmas doesn't follow the Anglo timeline you might be used to. The season officially begins on December 8th with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception (a national holiday). It extends through January 6th with Three Kings Day, which is actually the bigger deal for gift-giving.

December 8th: Immaculate Conception

This public holiday marks the unofficial start of the Christmas season. Cities illuminate their Christmas lights (often with elaborate ceremonies), and families begin decorating for the holiday. In Valencia, we have a stunning light display along the Turia Gardens that rivals anything I saw in Canada. Unlike North America, where Christmas decorations appear right after Halloween, Spanish cities wait until this date to officially launch festivities.

December 22nd: El Gordo Lottery Drawing

The Spanish Christmas Lottery (officially called Lotería de Navidad) is a national obsession. The drawing takes place on December 22nd and is broadcast for hours as schoolchildren sing out the winning numbers. The total prize money exceeds $2.5 billion, with "El Gordo" (the fat one) being the top prize of approximately $450,000 per ticket.

My coworking space organizes a shared purchase every year. It's less about individual winnings and more about collective hope and social bonding. Expect lottery conversations to dominate small talk throughout December.

December 24th: Nochebuena (Christmas Eve)

This is the main event in Spanish Christmas celebrations; more important than December 25th itself. Nochebuena centers on a late family dinner, typically starting around 9 or 10 PM and lasting well past midnight. Traditional dishes include seafood (especially prawns and sea bream), jamón ibérico, roast lamb or suckling pig, and turrones (nougat confections) for dessert.

Many families attend Misa del Gallo (Midnight Mass) after dinner, though this tradition has become less universal among younger generations. Some families exchange gifts on this night, though most wait for Three Kings Day.

Important for expats:

•        Restaurants close early on December 24th or require advance reservations

•        Supermarkets have reduced hours and may close by early afternoon

•        Public transport runs on reduced schedules

December 25th: Navidad (Christmas Day)

Christmas Day is calmer than in North America. It's a public holiday, but the big celebration happened the night before. Families typically gather for lunch (starting around 2-3 PM) with leftovers from Nochebuena or a fresh meal. This is recovery time rather than peak celebration.

Expect everything to be closed, including shops, restaurants, and museums. This isn't like the UK or US, where some businesses stay open. Plan accordingly if you're new to Spain or visiting during this period.

December 28th: Día de los Santos Inocentes

Spain's equivalent of April Fool's Day. Media outlets publish fake news stories, friends play pranks, and a general atmosphere of mischief prevails. I learned about this tradition the hard way, my first year, when my Spanish colleagues convinced me that Valencia was introducing a new tax on foreign residents. Always be skeptical of news on December 28th.

December 31st: Nochevieja (New Year's Eve)

Spaniards follow a specific tradition at midnight: eating twelve grapes (las doce uvas) as the clock strikes twelve, one grape per chime. Each grape represents good luck for one month of the coming year. The challenge is real; the bells chime faster than you'd expect.

Many people gather in public squares to watch the broadcast from Madrid's Puerta del Sol, where the tradition is nationally televised. After the grapes, celebrations continue well into the morning. In Valencia, parties along the beach are popular, and the city center stays lively until dawn.

Restaurants offer special New Year's Eve menus (cotillones) that typically include dinner, drinks, entertainment, and the midnight grapes. These require advance booking and range from $70 to $200 per person.

January 5th-6th: Three Kings Day (Reyes Magos)

This is the highlight of Spanish Christmas for children, and honestly, for adults too. On the evening of January 5th, cities hold elaborate Three Kings parades (Cabalgatas de Reyes) where costumed kings on floats throw candy to crowds. Valencia's parade is spectacular, with thousands lining the streets.

Children leave their shoes out that night, along with water and food for the kings and their camels. On the morning of January 6th, they wake to find gifts (if they've been good) or coal (traditionally made of sugar) if they haven't.

January 6th is a public holiday. Families gather for lunch and eat Roscón de Reyes, a ring-shaped cake decorated with candied fruit and filled with cream or chocolate. Hidden inside are a small figurine and a dried bean. Whoever finds the figurine gets a crown, and whoever finds the bean pays for next year's roscón.

Turrones: Nougat confections that come in two main varieties—turrón duro (hard, made with whole almonds) and turrón blando (soft, made with ground almonds). Supermarkets dedicate entire aisles to turrones starting in November. Quality varies dramatically; ask locals for their recommendations on brands. Expect to pay $8 to $25 per bar, depending on the quality of the bar.

Polvorones and Mantecados: Crumbly shortbread cookies made with almonds and lard. They literally disintegrate in your mouth. Traditional brands like Estepa are widely available. These make excellent gifts and travel well.

Seafood: Christmas Eve tables feature expensive seafood: prawns, langostinos, percebes (goose barnacles), and sea bream. Fish markets are absolute chaos on the mornings of December 23rd and 24th. If you're hosting, order ahead or arrive at dawn.

Jamón Ibérico: Premium cured ham is essential for holiday meals. Quality jamón is expensive ($100+ for a leg), but you can buy smaller portions at any good deli. This is not the time for supermarket ham.

Cava: Spanish sparkling wine is the default Christmas drink. Ranging from $8 to $40 per bottle, it's more affordable than Champagne, and locals prefer it. Freixenet and Codorníu are the most recognizable brands.

Roscón de Reyes: The Three Kings cake is available in bakeries from late December through January 6th. Order yours a few days in advance from a good bakery; popular spots sell out. Prices range from $20 to $50, depending on size and quality.

Regional Variations

Spanish Christmas foods vary significantly by region. In Catalonia, you'll find caga tió (a log that "poops" presents) and escudella i carn d'olla (a hearty stew). In Galicia, pulpo (octopus) is a traditional dish. In Valencia, our local contributions include mistela (a sweet wine) and various seafood dishes, reflecting our coastal location.

Spanish gift-giving practices differ from Anglo traditions, with distinct timing and expectations.

Three Kings vs. Santa Claus

Traditionally, children receive gifts on January 6th from the Three Kings rather than from Santa Claus on December 25th. This tradition remains strong, though globalization has introduced Papá Noel (Santa Claus) to some Spanish homes, especially in tourist areas or international families.

If you're raising children in Spain, you'll need to decide which tradition to follow, or do both, as some families now practice. Schools typically organize around Three Kings Day expectations, with children sharing what gifts los Reyes brought them on the first day back after January 6th.

Workplace Gift Exchanges

Many Spanish workplaces organize gift exchanges, though practices vary. Common approaches include:

•        Secret Santa (Amigo Invisible) with a modest spending limit ($15-25)

•        Collective basket of turrones, wine, and treats shared among the team

•        Company-sponsored Christmas lunch or dinner (often in mid-December before holiday closures)

As a remote worker, I've participated in these exchanges at my coworking space. The emphasis is on participation and thoughtfulness rather than expensive gifts. A good bottle of wine, specialty food items, or local products are always excellent choices.

Gift-Giving Etiquette

When invited to Spanish homes during the holidays, bring:

•        Quality wine or cava ($15-30 range)

•        A box of good turrones or polvorones

•        Fresh flowers (but avoid chrysanthemums—they're associated with funerals)

•        A small toy or book if children are present

Avoid overly personal or expensive gifts unless you're very close to the family. The gesture matters more than the price tag.

Spanish Christmas decorations differ noticeably from Anglo-American traditions, with less emphasis on exterior home displays and a greater focus on communal and religious symbols.

The Belén (Nativity Scene)

The belén is central to Spanish Christmas decoration, more important than the Christmas tree for traditional families. These nativity scenes range from simple figurine arrangements to elaborate miniature villages with running water, lighting, and animated figures.

Cities compete to create impressive public belénes. Valencia's Plaza del Ayuntamiento features a large-scale display, while smaller neighborhoods organize community competitions. You'll find belén figurines for sale at Christmas markets, with specialty shops offering thousands of pieces.

One unique Spanish tradition: the caganer, a figurine of a defecating peasant hidden somewhere in the nativity scene. This Catalan tradition has spread throughout Spain and is regarded as a symbol of good fortune for the coming year.

Christmas Trees

Christmas trees have become increasingly common in Spanish homes over the past few decades, although they're not as widespread as in North America. When present, they're typically artificial and smaller than what you'd see in Canadian or American homes, which is practical given the smaller sizes of Spanish apartments.

Trees go up around December 8th and come down after Three Kings Day (January 6th). Don't be surprised if Spanish friends don't have a tree; it's perfectly normal and doesn't indicate a lack of Christmas spirit.

Public Displays

Spanish cities invest heavily in public Christmas lighting and displays rather than relying on individual home decorations. Main shopping streets, plazas, and parks feature elaborate illuminations that stay lit from December 8th through Three Kings Day.

Christmas markets (mercadillos navideños) appear in central plazas, selling decorations, gifts, and traditional foods. These are lovely for evening strolls, but don't expect a German Christmas market scale. Spanish versions are typically smaller and more focused on religious items and local crafts.

Understanding how Spanish Christmas affects daily life helps you plan effectively, whether you're visiting or living here full-time.

Work and Business Closures

Public holidays in Spain during the Christmas season:

•        December 8th: Immaculate Conception

•        December 25th: Christmas Day

•        January 1st: New Year's Day

•        January 6th: Three Kings Day

Many businesses close for additional days between Christmas and New Year's, creating an extended holiday period. This is particularly true for smaller businesses, professional offices, and schools. My first year, I was surprised to find my coworking space nearly empty for the entire week between Christmas and New Year's.

If you're running a business or managing projects, plan around these closures. Spanish colleagues will be unavailable, and responses to emails sent during this period shouldn't be expected until after January 7th.

Shopping and Services

Retail patterns differ from North America:

•        Major shopping happens before Christmas Eve, not leading up to Christmas Day

•        Post-Christmas sales (rebajas) don't start until January 7th, after Three Kings Day

•        Supermarkets have reduced hours on December 24th, 31st, and January 5th

•        Most shops close entirely on public holidays; plan your grocery shopping accordingly

Pharmacies, gas stations, and some restaurants in tourist areas typically remain open on holidays, but most other businesses are closed. Keep essential supplies stocked.

Transportation

Public transport operates on reduced schedules during holidays. Metro and bus services operate at reduced frequencies on December 24th, 25th, 31st, January 1st, and January 6th. Some routes may not operate at all.

If you're traveling between Spanish cities during this period:

•        Book trains and buses well in advance; routes fill up as families travel

•        Expect premium pricing for travel between December 23-25 and December 30-January 2

•        Allow extra time for delays, as stations and airports are packed

Taxis and ride-sharing services charge New Year's Eve supplements, which can sometimes double the usual fare.

Spanish Christmas is intensely social and family-focused. As an expat, you may find yourself navigating invitations and expectations you didn't anticipate.

If Spanish friends or colleagues invite you to Christmas Eve or New Year's Eve celebrations, understand that these are significant invitations.

They're sharing major family moments with you. Accept graciously if you can, and bring appropriate gifts.

The flip side: many expats feel lonely during Spanish Christmas if they haven't built strong local connections. Unlike in Anglo countries, where Christmas Day social gatherings with friends are common, Christmas in Spain is primarily a family time.

Consider:

•        Organizing expat gatherings with others in similar situations

•        Traveling during this period if you don't have local connections

•        Volunteering with organizations that serve Christmas meals to those in need

Your first Christmas in Spain will likely surprise you. The timing feels off, the traditions seem unfamiliar, and you might miss elements of your home country's celebrations. That's completely normal.

Rather than trying to recreate an Anglo Christmas, I recommend leaning into Spanish traditions. Attend the Three Kings parade. Eat the twelve grapes at midnight on New Year's Eve (practice beforehand; it's harder than it looks). Buy a roscón de reyes and share it with friends.

Visit the public belénes in your city.

You can also blend traditions. Many expat families celebrate both December 25th and January 6th, or maintain certain traditions from their home country while adopting Spanish ones. There's no wrong way to approach this as long as you're respectful of local customs.

After four years in Valencia, I've developed my own Christmas rhythm that blends Canadian and Spanish elements. I celebrate a quiet Christmas Day with my partner (often with takeout Chinese food, which makes us both laugh). We host an international potluck between Christmas and New Year's for our expat friends. We always attend Valencia's Three Kings parade on January 5th. It's become a highlight of our year.

The key is finding what works for you while remaining open to Spanish traditions. Some of my favorite holiday memories now come from the specifically Spanish elements I never experienced before moving here: the chaos of the fish market on Christmas Eve morning, the collective tension during the twelve grapes countdown, and the joy on children's faces during the Three Kings' parade.

Spanish Christmas traditions operate on different rhythms and values than Anglo-American traditions, emphasizing family, food, and extended celebration over commercial frenzy. The season stretches longer, peak moments occur at different times, and the cultural focus is firmly on Three Kings Day rather than Christmas.

For anyone considering life in Spain, understanding these holiday traditions offers insight into broader Spanish culture, including the importance of family, the value placed on shared meals, the patience for extended celebrations, and the balance between traditional religious heritage and modern practices.

The holidays here aren't better or worse than what you might know from elsewhere; they're simply different. After a few years, these differences become part of your own story. The smell of turrones now triggers my holiday mood more than gingerbread ever did. The anticipation of the Three Kings parade feels just as magical as Christmas morning once did.

If you're spending your first Spanish Christmas this year, embrace the unfamiliarity. Try the traditions, even when they feel strange. The adjustment takes time, but eventually, Spanish Christmas will feel like your Christmas: complete with late dinners, twelve grapes, and the particular joy of watching kings throw candy from parade floats on a January evening.

Written by Clara Mitchell

Originally from Toronto, Clara now calls Valencia home. As a UX designer, she blends creativity with logic—her writing reflects that same thoughtful clarity. Clara explores Spain’s modern lifestyle, coworking hubs, and digital nomad opportunities with a focus on living beautifully and efficiently.

📍 From Toronto, now in Valencia
Clara writes about Spain’s modern expat life, coworking culture, and design-focused living. Her style suits professionals seeking productivity and inspiration abroad.
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